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← Day by Day Japan   Editor’s notes
00the route
Route

Kobe: a warm cheesecake, a room in the old settlement, a bar with a fire

September 25, 2026Sora Nakamura

An afternoon and a night in Kobe for two: the city's cheesecake since 1975 in Motomachi, a room at The Orient in the old foreign settlement, and a bar up the Kitano slope that has kept a wood fire since 1966.

The bar's hours were not printed in BRUTUS, so check before you walk up.

Where
Kobe
How long
1 day
Stops
3
Distance
2 km · 1.9 km on foot
On the clock
about 6.5 h
Pace
slow
Season
all
Mood
romance · night · slow

Times are the editor’s plan, not a timetable. ≈ marks our own rough estimate; check the train times before you go.

01what it costs
Day 1¥29,640≈ $187 / €164fares ¥0 · places ¥29,6402 stops not priced yet
Priced so far¥29,640≈ $187 / €164premiumCovers 1 of 3 stops and the trains · includes 1 night at the hotel

Per person, one adult. Each place’s figure is what its source printed, and the stop names the source and the date; the fares are the operators’ own published figures. Meals and rides with no printed figure are not in the total, and a figure printed more than a year ago says so. Converted at the European Central Bank reference rate of 2026-09-24, not a bank rate.

02the day
  1. 観音屋 元町本店

    Kobe's cheesecake since 1975, made with fresh Danish cheese and meant to be eaten warm. Hanako printed a box of six at ¥2,400 in January 2024.

    神戸市 · Hanako · 40 min

    Hours10:30–20:30; open every day · Hanako, Jan 2024 · may have changed

    The place →Open in maps ↗
  2. Walk≈10 min · 0.6 km
  3. THE ORIENT ジ オリエント(旧ORIENTAL HOTEL)

    In the old foreign settlement, looking out over the port to Mount Rokko. Jalan lists a room for two with breakfast from ¥29,640 a person.

    神戸市 · Jalan Net News · 60 min¥29,640per personas printed by Jalan September 14Booking requiredThe place →Open in maps ↗
  4. Walk≈22 min · 1.3 km
  5. YANAGASE

    A bar on the slope since 1966: a YANAGASE sign you can see from below, ivy on the walls, logs in the fireplace, and always a cocktail of fresh fruit in season, per the musician haruka nakamura in BRUTUS.

    神戸市 · BRUTUS · 90 min

    HoursNot printed in the article; check before you go

    The place →Open in maps ↗
04where to sleep
Where to sleepTHE ORIENT ジ オリエント(旧ORIENTAL HOTEL)

In the old foreign settlement, looking out over the port to Mount Rokko. Jalan lists a room for two with breakfast from ¥29,640 a person.

05music for the way
Music for the way
07the editor

Sora Nakamura was born in Kanazawa, grew up between a fish market and a grandmother's kitchen, and spent her twenties cooking in Tokyo, Lyon and Melbourne before she put down the knife to write. Back in Tokyo since 2019, she keeps a spreadsheet of every place she has eaten at since 2011 and a bicycle she rides to most of them. She writes routes, not rankings, and believes the best restaurant in any town is the one that has been open long enough to have a regular who died there.